文献类型：期刊文献

中文题名：唐代女裙服的形制及其在现代设计中的应用

英文题名：Appearance Shape of Women Skirts in Tang Dynasty and Its Application on Morden Design

作者：胥筝筝[1];冯巧优[1]

机构：[1]绍兴文理学院纺织服装学院

年份：2013

卷号：50

期号：12

起止页码：62

中文期刊名：丝绸

外文期刊名：Journal of Silk

收录：CSTPCD、、北大核心2011、Scopus、北大核心

语种：中文

中文关键词：唐代;女裙服;形制;腰线;应用

外文关键词：Tang dynasty ; skirt ; appearance shape ; waistline ; application

中文摘要：采用文献资料查阅、博物馆调研法,以唐初直至唐末为时间段,分别从裙型、裙宽和裙长等方面对其女裙服形制及特点进行探讨。唐代女裙形制以高腰裙为主,而随着当时社会的发展又呈现多样化特征:唐初窄小合身的H型,唐中裙宽和裙长逐渐变大的球型,唐末门幅增多,裙长曳地的悬钟型。无论裙形怎样变化,腰线是唐女裙服的特色,具体表现为初唐盛唐时高腰乳下、中晚唐时高腰掩乳的高腰线和低腰线设计。基于此,分析了腰线这一设计元素在现代女装中的应用,为设计师更好地传承传统元素、创新现代设计提供了更多的思考空间与可能性。

外文摘要：This paper adopts literature revtew anu museum su,,~y skirts from skirt shape, width and length during the period from early Tang dynasty to late Tang dynasty. The style skirts in Tang dynasty were dominated by high-waist skirts and presented diversification characteristics with social development： narrow, small and fitted H shape in early Tang dynasty; ball shape with the increase in the width and length in middle Tang dynasty; hanging-bell shape with the increase in the width and the skirt reaching to the ground. No matter how the skirt shape changed, the waistline is the characteristic of skirts in Tang dynasty, reflected in that： the high-waist was below the breast in early Tang dynasty; the high waistline covered the breast and low waistline in middle and late Tang dynasty. Based on this, this paper analyzes the application of the waistline in modern women costume and provides more thinking space and possibility for designers to better inherit traditional elements and innovate for modern design.